Mini-Z Guide – PDX Mini-Z

We have several classes we run at PDX Mini-Z. This guide is to help you set up a near box stock car so you can come race with us. Once you get your new car and rip it out of the box, the only things you HAVE to have are rechargeable batteries, a transponder, and new tires. Read the guide below, it will get you started in the right direction.

If you have any questions please reach out to us!

Shopping Sites

Wolfram RC
Micro RC Syndicate
HRC Arena Store
Kenon Hobby
Amain Hobbies
Silverhorse RC
Amazon
Ebay
Local Portland hobby shops usually do not have have stock but may order something for you.

The particular bodies that are available fluctuates from time to time, but currently, the RWD Ready-to-run set is the starting point. Generally speaking, longer and wider is easier to drive. 98mm bodies with a +2 or +3 wheel offset and an MM motor mount like the Audi R8, AMG GT3, McLaren 12C are good choices. Ready sets come with a RTR chassis, body and controller.

Motor choice

These “Ready Set” cars utilize an 80T brushed motor and are quick enough for our races. HFAY Racer class allows a PN 70T motor, which is similar to stock in speed, but doesn’t generate as much heat. EVO models can use a brushed or brushless motor. Please see our Classes page for more motor spec information.

Differential

RWD models come with a plastic gear diff, and these are usually just fine. Upgrade gear and ball differentials are options for all classes except box stock. One of the reasons to upgrade is to use 64P gears, which allow a wider range of ratios, and smoother, quieter operation

Motor Location

We suggest you choose a car with the MM (mid motor) Motor Mount type, with 98 or 102mm wheelbase / bodies. There are cool looking RM (rear mount) cars with 86, 90, and 94mm wheelbases, but these are more challenging to drive.

Tires and wheels

Each body has its own specific offsets. They are +0,1,2,3. R246 and some Kyosho wheels come in .5 increment offsets. The tires are narrow (8.5mm) for the fronts and wide (11mm) for the rear. If you use the wheels that come with the body, you shouldn’t have any offset issues. The LM cars have a different tire and rim combination than the racer style. Make sure the tires don’t rub the fenders. Minimal grinding of front splitters is a good idea as they can get caught under the rail on the RCP track.

EVO Option

If you already own a nice controller, want more flexibility on your body choice, or want a better upgrade path, you might consider an EVO chassis set. The EVO chassis can be set to be either brushed or brushless, and the receiver is a separate component that snaps in, and is available for several different radio formats. This is a more expensive option, and will not qualify for Kyosho Near Box class, but can easily be turned into a HFAY racer or Open class car. The 4100kv EVO chassis can be run unaltered as a HFAY racer, or you can replace the motor with a 3500kv and add other upgrades and remain in class. This option does require you to purchase a body and EVO receiver separately (about $100 for both), and supply your own controller.

Mini-z cars run on 4 AAA batteries. Racers use about 4 packs or 16 batteries during a race night. Batteries in the 700-900mah range offer the best performance. Some of our mod classes use 7.2v lipo batteries, discussed on the Classes page. In a pinch you may use non rechargeable batteries such as Energizer or Duracell batteries, however, the cost of doing so is extremely high, and they don’t perform as well as rechargeables.

Silverhorse 800mah NiMH
PN Racing High Power 750mah NiMH
Orion 750mah NiMH
Kyosho Speed House 800mah NiMH
Amazon Basics AAA Performance 800mah NiMH (these aren’t bad, great for practice or your controller)

A good battery charger is highly recommended. Here are some options to consider:

4 Cell Chargers With analyzer

8 Cell Chargers

ISDT N8 8-slot (recommended)
Powered MH-C800 8 slot

We use a lap timing system from I-LapRC to time our races. With a transponder we can track your position in a race. Only I-LapRC transponders are compatible so you must buy one from the source. The club may have one available for sale. Other clubs may use Easylap or Trackmate transponders, if not PDX Mini-z, check with your local track/club.

Getting a car purchased, basic setup options, a couple sets of batteries, charger, and transponder will run $250-$350 and you are ready to race. If you still have questions, post them on facebook or the forums and we’ll figure it out. Or just show up with all your stuff and we’ll get you in the right direction. To race, all you have to do is show up, any Monday night.

$35 well spent

These are the most common and successful parts that work for almost every Kyosho Mini-z car.

$6 / pair Front tires – KS Compound RCP Slick Front Tire MEDIUM #KS1038 (This is a narrow tire, most cars have a narrow front tire)
$6 / pair Rear tires – KS Compound RCP Radial Rear Tire SUPER SOFT #KS2824 (This is a wide tire, most cars have a wide rear tire)
$10 Bearings – 2WD Shield Hub Dry Ball Bearing Set #600129 Check to see if you need these, your Readyset may have come with them.
$6 T-Plate – PN Racing Mini-Z MR03 MM Silver Carbon T-Plate #3 #MR3001S
$5 Pinion – PN Racing Mini-Z Pro Match Delrin Pinion
- The group uses 7T to 9T depending on the track.
- When installing a new pro match pinion install a step down motor shim. If installing 7T pinion use 6T shim. The motor shims come with every car.

Information Sites

Beyond Kyosho

The 1/28 scene is exploding, with new chassis and formats coming out regularly from Atomic, Reflex, MWX, PN, RTRC and others. Several of us run lipo-based chassis in GT, F1 and drift. If you’re curious, we can show you how some of the options look and drive.

Your next big upgrade

Before you buy another major part or another car, think about your controller! Noble NB4+ is a popular and affordable model, and can be used with RWD mini-z with an added module.

VIDEOS

MR03 Chassis Configurations

Kris Hernandez – ByeBye Racing

Mini-Z for Beginners-Chassis Configurations

Inside Line Racing – Arthur Lin

ICS Settings (copied from a post by Eugene Uyterlinde)

LiFe save = 5v low voltage cutoff (disable for AAA)

Steering power is how strong the servo tries to hold the angle it’s told.

Speed is how fast servo is allowed. Punch, how much initial power is applied to the motor, and neutral is the neutral range.

Dumping, is the return to neutral position. Over it will travel full speed in return until it receives 0 for center value, then stop going slightly over the neutral point but fastest return to center. Smooth will slow centering as it approaches the center. If you use over, and it jitters at center move to mid or smooth and see if it holds better.

ST offset is center position.

RF mode is response time setup. Depends on receiver used. ASF/FHSS has slower response than Noble/Futaba.

Reverse time, delay in milliseconds to wait from motor stopped until reverse can be engaged.

Neutral brake is drag brake. Slowing force applied with no throttle input.

Motor time constant, timing of motor during primary acceleration zone.

Curve control, throttle curve. Negative soft bottom end response, strong top end. Plus, strong initial throttle with less on top. Flat is linear. (Negative for fast motor, plus for slow motor).

F punch, throttle punch. Power response for motor startup.

TH max revolution, RPM limit. Low, standard, or over (over removes limit and lets motor rev out fully).

Neutral range, how large the range in throttle is neutral. If reverse is difficult to engage, often the range is too narrow and when trigger goes to neutral it may be at the edge of the range and doesn’t register being neutral. So if reverse has issue, widen the range. Neutral range is also known as dead zone… so wider will have slight increase in trigger pull to engage.

Get Started in 5 Steps…

Shopping Sites

1. Pick a car